Plumbing the system

Here is the plumbing diagram we will use for the system. We had to make a few minor changes including:
1. Using a temperature differential controller instead of an automatic controller in the floor loop
2. Adding a mixing valve to the domestic hot water supply.
3. Providing some form of 'heat drop' for excess heat that will be generated in the warmer months.
Installation will begin soon.....stay tuned!

Happy New Year! Let the plumbing begin! We started installing the system on New Years Eve. Not for any symbolic reason, I just didn't have anything better to do.......

I mocked everything up and had Solar Services Inc. come by and make sure we were on track. The Radiant Floor Company also provided a lot of feedback on the diagrams (which were revised once more) before we soldered all the pipes. Our original need for a 'heat dump' turned to be unnecessary. This system includes a drain back tank so the heat transfer fluid (water) can drop out of the panels when the system is not in use. The trade off here lies in the need for a larger circulation pump to lift the water every time the system kicks on.

With all that copper in the utility room someone recommended we get a guard dog. This little lady seemed scary enough!

Shower Repairs

The outside shower is being replaced. We removed all the decking and plumbing to make way for the new shower design....(see our precision drawings below). I spend so much time drawing this stuff on napkins during my lunch break that CADD drawings have been replaced with site sketches on plywood panels. The outside shower is one of the most important items in this renovation and we all look forward to having it back!

The Rear Window

We finally finished most of the trim on the rear window and the colored panels have been installed. Most of the day was spent cutting small pieces of trim and staining them prior to installation.

Back Porch Ceiling

Glen came back last weekend to help us with the back porch ceiling. As usual, he did a fantastic job putting it all together. We used the same plywood panels found on the interior ceiling. I spent the night before they arrived pulling the sub base off the ceiling and removing all the bird nests. PETA would have a fit, but I won't tell if you don't!

The Back Deck

Back outside again to finish the deck. We are using recycled flooring from an old furniture factory. The boards are about 3 1/2" thick and vary in length from 4' to 13' long. This ended up being a lot of work so I hope it works out. I don't know how I would ever price this if I had to do it again! There is something to be said for standardized lumber......


Meanwhile, Pam was hard at work on the brick path that will connect the driveway to the deck. These are the bricks we have been collecting from all over town and most have been used at least once before on the house. We seem to just keep pulling them up and re-using them.

Finishing the Floor

The interface between the old wood floor and the concrete will be slate tiles. These had to be cut to fit along the line of the old exterior wall.

Staining the Floor

Once we had our mixture set we applied the stain. We ended up applying the stain in two coats. The first coat set the color and the second coat was used to even out some of the variations. We polished the concrete prior to applying the stain but the porosity of the floor created quite a bit of variation.
After the stain set up we applied the neutralizer. When the surface was ready we applied the sealer and headed for the hills! One thing is for sure... the smell is strong! It was a good night to go visit the grandparents.

The Wall Comes Down!

The temporary partition in our living room was up for about 6 months. Our little 850 square foot house was reduced to about 450 sf for most of the winter. For the first time we are getting as sense of what the finished house will look and feel like. We had a few friends over to help us remove the remaining studs, share a few drinks and mess up our messy little house..... big day today! Next up on the agenda will be the concrete floors.


The concrete has to be cleaned several times prior to applying the stain. We are using a black (Ebony) colored acid stain that will be diluted to about 25% of its full strength. We started with a small sample area in the corner to determine this mixture.

Lopi 1250

Guest Geckos and a fire box

Powered by Doughnuts

If if weren't for the doughnuts, we would only be half way there......

Flue

POURING THE BOX

We poured the wood stove box this past weekend. It was a long overdue event and a great milestone for the project. Never having attempted anything like this, I was nervous to say the least. I consulted everyone from concrete contractors, suppliers, radiant floor specialists, mechanical engineers, a local solar panel rep. and the code official that will ultimately pass or fail me next month. I learned more than I ever anticipated and was once again reminded of how little I know about so many fundamental things we do as designers.

We cast 2 lines of 3/8" Pex tubing inside the concrete that will distribute water throughout the box. These lines are connected to a larger line set in the radiant floor and will transfer heat from the wood stove to the floor. We want the concrete to absorb heat from the wood stove, but we don't want it to overheat. We will have two thermostats on this part of the system: one on the water as it exits, another on the box itself directly behind the wood stove. These will allow us to monitor the temperature of the water and the concrete. An expansion tank and pressure relief valve will provide relief for the water line. A digital display will provide a readout of the actual concrete temperature.
We rented a mixer to make sure we were consistent and used as little water as possible. To minimize the labor involved, we set up a mini assembly line to get the concrete mixed and in the forms without killing ourselves. I looks a little bit hillbilly, but it sure did make the job easy. Hats off to Monster truck for this one!
It's a pretty narrow form and we worked hard to make sure the piping stayed in place.
We were concerned about the dry mix not penetrating all the reinforcing and piping. We used a 1" dia. vibrator (the smallest we could find) to help us work the mix through. We tried not to over-vibrate the pour but only time will tell.
We drilled a small hole and placed a nail in it to create a cavity for the thermostat.
Later that evening we troweled the edges and covered it up to dry. We plan to leave the forms on for about 10 days. (The concrete will take about 28 days to cure.) This should give us time to complete the framing and bring in the wood stove. As I sit here blogging in my winter coat and stocking cap I dream of firing that thing up!